Category: ニュース, 監督photo通信

監督Photo通信 #10

〈走り・盛り・名残〉といった概念の中でも、献立にストーリーを描くプロたちは季節との出会いを重んじるし、待ちわびた解禁日には市場はザワザワする。多くの要素が複雑に絡み合う仲卸と買い出し人の会話、そんなプロたちの扱う「美味しさ」の概念は、もはや自分のような素人の及ばない領域にある。(監督 / 遠藤)


“You should know a lot about fish by now.” I often get this type of comment in the interview. Well, the more I try to learn, the more I realize I know so little about it. Tsukiji market has played its significant role in fostering sophisticated and specialized food culture. The world of fish is so complex with huge variety, types of cuisines and changing seasonality.

What is interesting is, sometimes you actually lose the sense of seasonality being in Tsukiji. Today, fish comes from all over the country and even outside of Japan. Japan is an island that stretches from North to South, this means fish of different seasons come to Tsukiji at the same time.

“There is no calendar or a map in the ocean”, Okuda from Koju who’s interviewed in the film once told me. One-degree difference in seawater temperature changes when fish spawns. Fish migrates to different locations to follow small fish they feed on. You are seeing impact of global warming every year. New tools and technology are evolving the way we catch fish. There are just so many changes and it’s difficult to catch up what’s happening.

Chefs come to the market to find what’s best in season to express seasonality through their dishes. People at the market get excited about long-awaited open season for the seasonal fish. The sophisticated conversation between the chefs and wholesalers who pursue ‘good fish’ from different perspectives is something I will never be able to fully understand. (Endo)